NEW DELHI: As the lunchtime rush neared, in the kitchen of Delhi's upscale Tres Restaurant, Lilima Khan carried in a tub full of fresh tomatoes and celery. She expertly made a vegetable broth and prepared garnish for the salad orders. Two years ago, on her first day at the restaurant, reputed for its contemporary European cuisine, she had sat on a ledge facing the long, stainless steel counter, watching nervously: men in various stages of a feverish dance with food, fire, steam and metal. "I wasn't sure I could do it; there were no other girls. Just me," she said.